(7)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings White Flat Enamel Oil-Based Marine Primer (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(6)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Navy Blue Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(3)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Bright Red Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(4)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Deep Green Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(14)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings White Semi-Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
6. Slick Rick - Let's Get Crazy.
Slick rick eye patch. 5. 7. Slick Rick - Indian Girl (An Adult Story).
(2)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings White Flat Enamel Oil-Based Marine Primer (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(5)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings White Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
(7)
Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Black Gloss Enamel Oil-Based Marine Paint (Actual Net Contents: 32-fl oz)
Likes: 4
Cast Iron
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best paint for machine restoration?
I'm looking for a good paint for my old rockford lathe restoration. I want it to hold up to oil, trim-sol coolant, ect..
I'm assuming a 2 part paint is best, right?
Any brand/models would be greatly appreciated. If i can get it through somewhere local, that'd be great.
Thanks in advance!
Dan
Diamond
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HARDNOSE
http://www.por15.com/HARDNOSE-PAINT/productinfo/HNGB/
Diamond
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Here's My favorite, Ace Hardware Rust Stop Enamel on a gear shaper after 10 years of steel chips and chlorinated cutting oils. It's even better if you put a hardner in it, and they will custom mix colors for you.
Last edited by Mud; 02-20-2009 at 02:23 PM.
Diamond
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Here is a guy that knows how to paint. Notice this is a brush job.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb..d.php?t=172446
John Oder
Stainless
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- Tacoma Washington
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I use a quick drying oil base enamil. Brushes on real nice, and leaves a good finnish.
Plastic
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get thyself down to the local auto body paint supplier.he will mix the exact color that you want and also in any of several formulations (enamel,clear coat-base coat) and will also supply proper primers etc.also look for some of the two part paints..extremely tough. stay away from some of the exotics though,you may find them quite toxic.reat place for advice.ps this can be quite expensive but will last a long long time.I do all my old equipment like this now and stay away from tremclad type products.my .02 worth
Diamond
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Be careful, those auto ones can be very toxic.
I used Sherwin William's Alkyd Enamel Equipment paint. Holds up well against coolant and oil. Make sure you use a hardener though or it will take about 2 years to fully cure. (No joke, 2 years, really)
Perry Harrington
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Diamond
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Originally Posted by macona
I used Sherwin William's Alkyd Enamel Equipment paint. Holds up well against coolant and oil. Make sure you use a hardener though or it will take about 2 years to fully cure. (No joke, 2 years, really)
Cast Iron
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Originally Posted by Perry Harrington
somehow i knew this was going to pop up.
thanks for all the advice guys. it's been hell stripping this thing, but it's almost done. i cant wait until i can start putting it together!
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If you want to go to the extra trouble a 2 part polyurethane over epoxy primer can't be beat IMHO. I used Endura on my 8520 and it came out great:
http://gallery.intlwaters.com/thumbnails.php?album=323
Here's their site:
http://www.endura.ca/
Once this stuff is hardened nothing (including battery acid) will touch it.
As suggested though the two parts are quite toxic and you should really have a proper place to spray it if you go that route. Pretty sure they have formulas that brush well too.
Cast Iron
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DuPont Imron is insanely tough. Normal application: Aircraft paint. It withstands several hundred hours immersion in heated Skydrol (aviation hydraulic fluid) with only a minor loss of surface gloss and hardness.
CJ
Titanium
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Imron is also insanely hazardous and isn't the paint to be used by a rookie without proper respiration equipment.
Vote for Duron Alkyd Enamel.
Steve.
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Well, I guess paint for machines is like Pizza..everybody has their own idea of what's best..
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Originally Posted by cmjohnson
DuPont Imron is insanely tough. Normal application: Aircraft paint. It withstands several hundred hours immersion in heated Skydrol (aviation hydraulic fluid) with only a minor loss of surface gloss and hardness.
CJ
Titanium
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I am just finishing up a paint job on my band saw. I used a 'single stage' epoxy with hardener and I am not too happy with the way this paint works. I would have used acrylic enamel with hardener or Imron had I known the piss poor coverage. I bough this stuff because the maker claims it flows out using a brush or roller. After three trys with a brush and roller I color sanded it and shot a tack coat let it sit and sprayed a wet coat. It still needs more paint to cover some areas.
I wanted to avoid spraying the saw so I sought out a paint that was brushable, I don't know what the standards are for brushed finish but it was well below my standards. After using this I would hearly recomend skipping the 'friendly' paints and go directly to an auto paint supply and buy something I know works.
Steve
Cast Iron
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Plain old Valspar Tractor and Implement (I think it's an oil based enamel) paint applied with a brush will give good results if you prep the part to be painted well enough.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb..d.php?t=172234
Ryan
Last edited by G1K; 02-21-2009 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Added pic
Cast Iron
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Originally Posted by SteveF
Imron is also insanely hazardous and isn't the paint to be used by a rookie without proper respiration equipment.
Vote for Duron Alkyd Enamel.
Steve.
I have all the neccesary painting equipment needed to spray, and i've sprayed a few cars in my past, but i'm still on the fence there. I think i might brush it on to get a thicker coat, and to be a little lighter on the mess. I guess it all depends on how good my body filler job comes out.
Plastic
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I just painted my 1964 Bridgeport with PPG Deltron base coat/clear coat. I power sanded most of the machine base as it was in great condition having been properly reconditioned in the early 1990's. The head was from an older machine and had been poorly painted about 6 times. I stripped the head with chemical stripper to bare metal and used the same heavy (catalyzed) primer I use on car restorations. Lots of sanding and then the final catalyzed auto paint on top. A pint of color was $57. I probably spent $100 with the clear and catalysis but it looks as good as my custom sports car! Catalyzed car paints are good with mild solvents and can be touched up if necessary. No, I didn't buff it out.
Cast Iron
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Originally Posted by Sportech
I just painted my 1964 Bridgeport with PPG Deltron base coat/clear coat. I power sanded most of the machine base as it was in great condition having been properly reconditioned in the early 1990's. The head was from an older machine and had been poorly painted about 6 times. I stripped the head with chemical stripper to bare metal and used the same heavy (catalyzed) primer I use on car restorations. Lots of sanding and then the final catalyzed auto paint on top. A pint of color was $57. I probably spent $100 with the clear and catalysis but it looks as good as my custom sports car! Catalyzed car paints are good with mild solvents and can be touched up if necessary. No, I didn't buff it out.
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Paint Problems and Solutions Guide
Endura Manufacturing Co. Ltd. 12425 149th Street Edmonton, Alberta T5L 2J6 1-800-661-9930 www.endura.ca
Table of Contents Paint problems are easy to spot, but in many cases quite difficult to analyze. Endura paint created this guide to assist applicators. The guide contains information and advice from experienced applicators, technicians, and product developers. Additional information is always available through your regional sales representative.
Troubleshooting Checklist
1
Blistering
2
Chipping
3
Cracking
4
Cratering/Fish Eyes
5
Crawling
7
Delamination
8
Dissolution
9
Dry Spray
10
Mottling
11
No Hold Out
12
Orange Peel
13
Poor Hiding
14
Runs or Sags
15
Sandscratch Swelling
16
Slow Drying
17
Solvent Popping
18
Water Spotting
19
Wrinkling
20
Troubleshooting Checklist
Surface Cleaning thoroughly clean and rinse use high quality water-based products tack cloth wipe dry clean just before coating application Surface Preparation commercial sandblast machine sanding grit - use recommended grit correct primer selection see product data sheets correct primer application Preparation of Product follow the recommendations of Endura Product Data Sheets and product labels correct mixing ratio use only Endura recommended: activators, additives, and thinners recommended spraying viscosity Application
Equipment
Environment
spray technique compatible temperatures: - product - substrate - spray booth recommended film build thickness curing rate/drying time compressor air lines spray gun set up spray booth: - temperature - clean air intake source - air replacement rate - general cleanliness weather and humidity
Page 1
Blistering
Description: Hollow bubbles in the paint film. Identification Bubbles in or under the finish (0.5 to 1.5 mm) May follow the shape of a repair spot Most common on horizontal surfaces May contain a vapor or a liquid Probable Cause Excessive moisture in air supply while priming/topcoating Primer not allowed to dry thoroughly Improperly cured 2-part polyester body Topcoat immersed in water for extended periods of time Remedy Check for moisture damage Use recommended epoxy fillers Apply primer/sealer Repaint Prevention
Allow sufficient drying times Use EP-2C Hi-Build Epoxy Primer (waterproof at 12.0 mil) in high moisture conditions Cover painted articles for long term storage with a non-airtight cover
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 2
Chipping
Description: Small pieces of paint film breaking away. Identification Small pieces of paint film missing Pinhole size to thumbnail size each May be exposing an underlying layer Usually seen on leading edges Probable Cause Surface impact Using HS-421 Primer without sealing before applying topcoat Exposure to harsh conditions: - Frequent use on gravel roads Remedy
Small chips can be filled with 2-part Large chips or large areas with chipping should be blended - follow Endura's Blending Procedure Select the most suitable coatings for environmental conditions Repeat all steps in application procedure
Prevention
Avoid use of HS-421 Primer in high impact areas Use EP-321 Epoxy Primer or EP-521 Epoxy Primer for industrial service (sandblasted steel, etc.) Use EX-2C TF-2K Topcoat for severe conditions
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 3
Cracking
Description: Splitting throughout the paint film thickness. Identification Topcoat splitting Series of straight lines Primer or substrate may be visible Probable Cause Substrate not at room temperature Component “A” and Component “B” not uniformly mixed Coating applied over a previously cracked finish or unstable substrate Excessive total film thickness Remedy
Prevention
Remove finish from affected area Apply primer/sealer Repaint Remove poor quality/unstable finishes Check current film thickness before starting. Excessive paint should be removed before refinishing. Mix Component “A” and Component “B” thoroughly Follow recommended film thickness Follow recommended flash-off and drying time between coats
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 4
Cratering / Fish Eyes
Description: Usually occurs while spraying or immediately after. Paint film marked with round surface depressions or bowl-like craters. Identification Usually sporadic, confined to specific contaminated areas Previous coat is visible The centre may contain a particle Probable Cause Surface contamination: - Silicone or wax based protective coatings or polishes - Hand prints - Grease, oil, diesel fuel - Wash solvents containing naphtha Contaminated booth air intake Insufficiently dried surface contaminated in shop/drying area Continual use of Endura Crater Eliminator Remedy
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
If noticed while painting: - Stop painting - Allow flash-off - Re-mix coating, adding more EX-2C Thinner: 1 part Component “A” 1 part Component “B” 2 parts EX-2C Thinner - Continue to paint subsequent coats at the normal mix ratio Major problem: - Allow to dry thoroughly - Determine and remove the contaminant - Sand smooth - Clean substrate thoroughly with soap and water - Repaint
Page 5
Cratering / Fish Eyes
Prevention
Proper surface preparation: use water-based cleaning solutions Ensure compressed air is not contaminated with oil and water Protect against diesel exhaust fumes and other air-borne contaminants Maintain a clean shop Use recommended amounts of Endura Crater Eliminator Mist on the 1st coat of topcoat Allow booth exhaust fan to run as long as possible Provide a clean working area Wear clean protective equipment including latex or nitrile gloves
Page 6
Crawling
Description: Usually occurs with clearcoats. Wet paint film receding, leaving some areas uncoated. Identification Lack of adhesion while spraying Coating varies from 'not hiding' to 'accumulated' Previous coat is visible Commonly occurs along edges or around rivets Probable Cause A film of surface contamination Re-coating a painted or clearcoated surface already high in silicone content Remedy
Prevention
Sand smooth Repaint Proper surface preparation: use waterbased cleaning solutions Frequently replace tack cloths and rags used to solvent wipe Pay special attention wiping edges and problem areas Reduce product for the first coat of topcoat Mist on the first coat of topcoat
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 7
Delamination
Description: Usually occurs around edges, trim, or hardware. Paint film not adhering to the substrate, or, layers of paint film separating. Identification Large pieces of coating peeling off Film peels off easily Probable Cause Contaminated surface Metal conditioner and/or appropriate primer was not used Insufficient flash-off time between coats Poor quality sanding Incorrect film build-too heavy Incorrect Spray Technique: - Coating applied too dry or too heavy Insufficient flash off time between coats (and or between primer and topcoat Remedy
Prevention
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Featheredge the problem areas Use sealer as recommended Repaint Reduce total film thickness Follow recommended topcoat window Follow recommended film builds, topcoat will delaminate if applied over an insufficient primer coat Follow recommended viscosity Follow recommended flash-off times Carefully sand edges and areas around hardware Use recommended metal conditioner and conversion coating Clean thoroughly with recommended water-based cleaners Mix Component “A” and Component “B” thoroughly
Page 8
Dissolution
Description: Unique to metallic paints. Basecoat metallic flakes surfacing in the clearcoat Identification altered colour exaggerated metallic appearance. Probable Cause Insufficient flash-off time between basecoat and clearcoat Remedy
Prevention
Allow the paint to dry Sand smooth Repaint base and clear Correct gun set up - use recommended air pressure Use recommended amounts of Endura Super Catalyst II in the basecoat Follow recommended flash-off times Follow recommended viscosity
Clearcoat Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 9
Dry Spray
Description: Areas of paint film lacking gloss. Identification Dull surface with a grainy texture Probable Cause Improper gun setting - insufficient fluid feed Gun air pressure regulated too high Viscosity too high Wrong thinner used - too fast Incorrect spray technique: - Holding spray gun too far from surface or passing too quickly resulting in an insufficiently wet film Remedy
Prevention
Allow the paint to dry Sand smooth Repaint
Only use Endura thinners/reducers, at recommended amounts (up to 50% by volume, based on equipment used) Use a slower thinner and retarder Adjust gun set-up, fluid feed - Follow recommended air Pressure - Use larger size fluid tip Alter spray technique, spray pattern
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 10
Mottling
Description: Unique to metallic paints. Concentrations of metallic flakes in the paint film. Identification A cloudy or blotchy appearance. Probable Cause Improper equipment: type of gun, size of nozzle Improper gun settings Incorrect spray technique: - Holding spray gun too close to surface - Uneven spray pattern - Application too heavy Wrong thinner/reducer for shop temperature Component 'A' and Component 'B' not thoroughly mixed Remedy
Prevention
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Sand smooth Repaint Correct gun set-up: - Decrease nozzle tip size - Increase air pressure to provide more atomization - Decrease fluid pressure in pressure pot Proper selection of solvent for shop conditions - In cold conditions use fast solvent - In hot conditions use slow solvent Use a Hi-Hide Basecoat followed by Clear 221 Use correct technique for applying metallic paints Apply final coat as a mist coat
Page 11
No Hold Out
Description: The primer or sealer not withstanding the solvent from the topcoat. Identification Coating has lost gloss Sandscratches or other substrate flaws show through the paint film Probable Cause Unstable substrate Wrong sandpaper grit - too coarse Primer oversanded Primer uncured No sealer was used on aged or spot primed finishes Remedy
Prevention
Sand smooth Use sealer if necessary Repaint Use urethane, polyester, or epoxy fillers and Endura primers Use sealer if uncertain about substrate stability Follow Endura's recommendations for sanding Use Endura Super Catalyst II as recommended Allow sufficient flash-off times between primer and topcoats Allow a longer flash-off time between coats
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 12
Orange Peel
Description: Dry paint film has a dimpled surface. Identification Paint finish looks like the peel of an orange Probable Cause Viscosity too high Gun air pressure too low (causing lack of atomization) Primer or sealer applied not smooth Wrong thinner/reducer Incorrect spray technique: - Holding gun too far from surface - Wide fan patterns Wrong amount of thinner or reducer used - not enough Poor quality sanding Remedy
Prevention
Sand smooth Repaint topcoat Proper surface preparation: carefully sand smooth Check viscosity of products Adjust gun set up: - Use smaller size fluid tip - Use air cap that increases paint atomization Use recommended solvent
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 13
Poor Hiding
Description: Paint film not covering adequately. Identification Insufficient total film thickness Finish has a transparent appearance Dull finish, not glossy Probable Cause Insufficient film build Not using basecoat when required for transparent colours Wrong amount of thinner/reducer - too much Insufficient lighting in the spray booth Remedy
Prevention
Sand smooth Repaint
Use Endura's Hi-Hide formulation Use the recommended base colour Use a tinted primer when recommended Follow Endura's recommendations for reduction and number of coats Provide good lighting for spraying
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 14
Runs or Sags
Description: Usually occurs on vertical surfaces. A heavy paint film collects and moves downward, setting in ripples. Identification A rippled, distorted paint film Probable Cause Improper equipment set-up Gun air pressure too low (causing lack of atomization) Shop or substrate temperature too low Temperature of paint product too low Insufficient lighting in the spray booth Incorrect solvent for conditions Wrong amount of thinner/reducer used -too much Incorrect spray technique -Holding gun too close to surface -Application too heavy Remedy
Prevention
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Sand smooth Repaint Maintain a suitable, consistent shop temperature and airflow Allow surface to warm up to at least room temperature before applying paint Store paint products at room temperature Provide good lighting for spraying Use proper gun settings and air pressure - Use smaller size fluid tip - Increase gun air pressure/increase atomization - Decrease pot pressure Use correct solvent for conditions -fast solvents for cold conditions Allow sufficient flash-off and drying time between coats
Page 15
Sandscratch Swelling
Description: Usually occurs when painting over repair work. Sanding scratches in the previous layer swell through the paint film. Identification Swollen scratch lines that follow the direction of sanding Unusual light reflections Probable Cause Improper surface preparation Primer not allowed to dry thoroughly Insufficient flash-off time between coats Original finish incompatible with Endura products Excessive primer film build Remedy
Prevention
Sand smooth Apply sealer Repaint Proper surface preparation: check recommended sandpaper grits Finish any polyester type filler with a finer grit sandpaper Completely seal porous substrates (sealer eliminates sandscratch swelling) Follow recommended primer film thickness Allow sufficient flash-off time between coats
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 16
Slow Drying
Description: Coating does not cure within the usual time frame. Probable Cause Wrong amount of “B” component used - too little or too much Insufficient flash-off time between coats Poor drying conditions: drying area too cool Solvent too slow Incorrect spray technique: - Application too heavy Remedy
Prevention
Drying area should be well ventilated and warm Drying may be accelerated by increasing booth temperature after spraying Use correct amount of Component “B” Use recommended thinner Use Endura Super Catalyst II as recommended Use a faster solvent system Follow film thickness recommendations Allow sufficient flash-off time Increase booth temperature after an adequate flash-off period
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 17
Solvent Popping
Description: Small blisters or bumps on the paint film surface. Identification Smooth blisters or bumps, some may have popped and appear as cratering Usually occurring on horizontal surfaces Probable Cause Improperly cured polyester fillers Incorrect spray technique: - Application of the primer too heavy - Coating applied too dry Insufficient flash-off or drying time between coats Wrong thinner/reducer used Too much flash-off time before force drying Baking temperature too high Excessive use of Super Catalyst II Remedy
Prevention
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Minor problem: - Sand smooth - Apply sealer - Repaint Major problem: - Remove finish - Repaint Ensure polyester type fillers are fully cured before priming Completely seal porous substrates Use correct solvent for conditions - slow solvent for hot conditions Follow recommended film build thickness Allow sufficient flash-off time between coats Flash-off time of 5-10 minutes before forced drying
Page 18
Water Spotting
Description: Patches of whitish discolouration on the paint film. Identification Patchy areas may be: - Slightly indented - Dull, not glossy - Cloudy, whitish Probable Cause Coating was exposed to moisture in the first 24 hours after painting Coating was washed before the finish was cured Remedy
Prevention
Minor problem: polish Major problem: - Sand smooth - Repaint Follow recommended cure times before washing or exposing to rain Increase spray booth temperature Use Endura Super Catalyst II in topcoats
Basecoat / Topcoat Sealer Primer Substrate
Page 19
Wrinkling
Description: The film surface skins over and then swells, forming irregular ridges and creases. Identification Paint film forms creases, folds, and slight ridges Film surface appears thick and leathery Probable Cause Solvent sensitive enamel under topcoat or primer Primer or sealer not cured thoroughly Incorrect spray technique: - Application of topcoat too heavy Wrong amount of “B” component used - too little Remedy
Prevention
Remove finish Apply sealer Repaint Check solvent sensitivity - perform a solvent rub test on existing finishes Use sealers where appropriate Allow sufficient flash-off times between coats Use correct amount of Component “B”
Page 20
All Rights Reserved All material contained within this guide may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the President of Endura Manufacturing Co. Ltd.
